When I was a child, I remember how on chilly mornings in early spring, solitary figures armed with sharp knives and paper bags would leave their West Side homes on a mission both secret and urgent. This clandestine army would walk or drive along roads and parks, woods, fields, and empty lots, looking for a plant that reminded them of Sicily. They were in search of wild gardoons, sometimes called cardoons, garduna, even carduni, depending on where your people were from. If you were lucky enough to find a good patch, you kept it close to the vest, sharing the prized location only with your closest family members.
Gardoons here in the US are not the same plant as in Sicily. It is actually burdock, a close relative of the Italian cardoon, which tastes like artichoke and looks and cooks a lot like celery. The long stringy stalks of the wild gardoon must be peeled and boiled before its edible. Many dredge it in eggs and breadcrumbs and fry it. Some even freeze it in its raw form, to make sure there is some available to serve on the Feast of San Giuseppe (patron saint of Sicily), in mid-March.[1]
My Sicilian grandmother also liked to cook dandelion greens, particularly in spring when they were young and tender. Far more plentiful than gardoons, they could be found in yards all over the West Side. While delicious simply sautéed with olive oil and garlic, I remember eating them with scrambled eggs and parmesan cheese. I’m not sure my grandmother knew this, but dandelion greens are a great source of vitamins A, C, E and K and contain small amounts of B vitamins as well as several minerals.[2]
Not long ago, during one of our master gardener conferences, we had an expert talk to us about foraging, also known as “wildcrafting.” This is the ancient practice of searching for and harvesting plants in their natural habitat for use in the kitchen or for medicinal purposes. The expert talked about a growing movement in the US focused not only on the benefits of foraging, but also the need to protect these valuable plants from overharvesting, invasive species, and unfortunately in some cases, theft.[3]
A number of European countries host similar movements. According to one such group, “Plants for a Future,” there are over 20,000 species of edible plants in the world, but fewer than 20 species provide 90% of our food. They argue that the changing world climate warrants a greater diversity of food sources, and encourage what they call “woodland/forest gardening.”[4]
Wildcrafting enthusiasts, sensitive to the repercussions of overharvesting, recommend taking only the fruit, flowers or branches of wild plants, and leaving the living plant to replenish itself. If a whole plant must be taken, they suggest removing only a few plants and leaving the rest of the patch intact.[5]
In West Virginia, where we now spend many weekends, we hunt for wild delicacies in the Appalachian hills. Ramps—stinky wild leeks that taste like onions with a hint of garlic—grow in the woods, as do morels, a funny-looking mushroom that comes in both “black” and “blond” varieties. It is possible to find both ramps and morels at West Virginia farmer’s markets this time of year, but it is much more fun to find them on your own.
Much like the wild gardoon sites in urban Buffalo, the location of a ramp or morel patch in the hills of West Virginia is a closely guarded secret. It almost takes a sixth sense to discover your first one. So whenever I set out to find one, I channel the spirit of my ancestors, the first foragers I ever knew, on the West Side of Buffalo.
Have you or your loved ones ever foraged for food? Tell me about it! I would love to hear your stories.
Moxie Gardiner is a writer and gardener who grew up on the West Side of Buffalo, NY. In a previous life she was a journalist, magazine editor, speech writer, and policy wonk. Back in the day she made three solo parachute jumps, flew in an F-15 fighter jet, and crawled through mud pits at the Jungle Operations Training Course in Panama. She now meditates and practices yoga. She is almost ready to publish her first novel, set in Buffalo.
[1] Never cooked gardoons? Here’s a great article in Smithsonian Magazine to get you started. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/what-heck-do-i-do-cardoon-180950301/
[2] For more on the benefits of eating dandelions, see https://sunwarrior.com/blogs/health-hub/11-health-benefits-of-dandelion-leaves-and-dandelion-root
[3] For more info on wildcrafting check out https://botanicalstudies.net/wildcrafting/
[4] See their website, https://pfaf.org/user/AboutUs.aspx
[5] For more information on “considerate foraging,” check out https://www.foragers-association.org.uk/index.php/principles-and-practice
One of my favorite memories growing up in Buffalo was the annual trip my brothers and I would take each fall to collect chestnuts at the Connecticut Street Armory. At least, we thought they were chestnuts.