When I first moved to the mid-Atlantic region, my family from Buffalo came to visit and asked where we might go out to dinner. “It’s Friday,” they said. “Where’s the best fish fry around here?”
“I don’t know,” I said, scratching my head. “I’ve never seen a sign for one.” I called all the seafood and family restaurants in the area, but no one had ever heard of a fish fry, let alone served one. One uppity guy, who probably thought fish was meant only for sushi, said, “Fried fish? Don’t you know how unhealthy that is?” I hung up the phone and gave my relatives the bad news. No fish fries on Friday here. They shook their heads. “What kind of a place is this anyway?” asked my aunt.
Photo by Moxie Gardiner.
That experience led me to the sad (but ultimately false) conclusion that only restaurants in the Western New York area serve fish fries on Friday. When I lived in Buffalo, you couldn’t swing a double-dutch jump rope without hitting a restaurant that served a complete fish fry dinner, not only during Lent, as you might expect, but every Friday throughout the year. I had assumed it was the same everywhere.
It comes with a side of coleslaw and fried apples.
So why, I wondered, did the fish fry become so popular in a town where roast beef on ‘weck, Sahlen’s hot dogs, and our world famous chicken wings, suggest a distinct predilection for meat? The answer is simple: Buffalo is home to lots of Catholics.
For over a thousand years, Christians abstained from eating meat and meat products on Fridays (Good Friday being the day Jesus was crucified) as well as on many religious holidays. So strictly did Catholics adhere to this practice that a desperate McDonald’s franchise owner in Cincinnati is said to have invented the Filet-O-Fish sandwich because he had such a hard time selling burgers on Friday.
Photo by Moxie Gardiner.
According to Brian Fagan, a professor emeritus of archaeology at the University of California, Santa Barbara, in his book, Fish on Friday: Feasting, Fasting, and the Discovery of the New World, Catholicism’s fish fasting days directly contributed to the growth of the global fishing industry, so much so that after Vatican II loosened the rules, the price of fish, according to one economic analysis, took a nose dive.
Despite my discouraging efforts to find a fish fry in my new hometown, it turns out that there are many places in the US where a fish fry can still be found. They are particularly popular in the Northeast and Midwest, where Catholics of German, Polish, Irish, and Italian descent abound. I’ve since learned that there are fish fries in the South, but they are different. Usually they are social gatherings in large halls where flounder, bream or catfish are battered in corn meal and buttermilk, and served with a side of hush puppies or cheesy grits.
Photo by Moxie Gardiner.
I happened to be in Buffalo recently on a Friday night and was eager to see how the fish fry was faring during the pandemic. I needn’t have worried. I was able to get one in a take-out container, complete with French fries, lemon slices, tartar sauce, macaroni salad, coleslaw, a dinner roll and butter, and in case I was still hungry, a slice of apple pie. In Buffalo, if you don’t serve a beer battered fish that hangs off both sides of the plate and comes with these obligatory side dishes, you will not see a repeat customer.
When I was growing up, the fish fries I remember took advantage of the plentiful perch found in Lake Erie. Today, there is a raging debate about which makes the better fish fry—Atlantic Ocean haddock or cod? Haddock is used in about 90% of all Buffalo fish fries today, according to a recent article in the Buffalo News, but to me the type of fish doesn’t matter. Finding a fish fry at all makes the Buffalonian in me smile.
Do you eat fish on Friday? Do you have a favorite fish fry place? Leave me a comment below!
Moxie Gardiner is a writer and gardener who grew up on the West Side of Buffalo, NY. In a previous life she was a journalist, magazine editor, speech writer, and policy wonk. Back in the day she made three solo parachute jumps, flew in an F-15 fighter jet, and crawled through mud pits at the Jungle Operations Training Course in Panama. She now meditates and practices yoga. She is almost ready to publish her first novel, set in Buffalo.
Blue pike and yellow pike (aka Walleye), until 1970 or thereabouts; they disappeared from Lake Erie about then. Every Friday night, Dad, Mom, myself and my 2 younger brothers would head for Connors’ (West Seneca), Hoak’s (summer only), or some other place for fish. They were breaded back in the day, but I’ve switched allegiance to beer-battered now. Favorite current restaurant is on Chautauqua Lake: Guppy’s, in Bemus Point. Summer Fridays in non-COVID years are a 30-45 min wait (no reservations). With fries and cole slaw, and an order of medium wings for an appetizer.
Ah yes, Mary Ellen, I will never forget the taste of yellow pike though it has been many years. Interesting that your new favorite fish fry restaurant is on Chautauqua Lake. I’ve only recently become acquainted with Bemus Point, despite my many years of living in Western New York. What a cool little town!
Growing up, we used to go to a place we always called “East & Austin” for fish fry. It was actually the Frontier Grill which was located at (wait for it) the corner of East St & Austin St.! Great fish fry…always packed on Friday night…always a wait, but worth it. My dad usually got their shrimp basket. Great memories!
Yes, Kathleen, the Frontier Grill! Fond memories there for many. Thanks for the reminder.
Fish fries came about because Friday was payday and men would cash them at local.bars and drink. Wives brought the family to get the father and to keep the families, and the money, in the bars $1.00 fish fries were served.
Those were the days Esther! Thank you for your comment. I must say there are plenty of places where you can still get a complete fish fry dinner at a reasonable price (comparatively speaking), but maybe not for the same reasons!
Growing up on the WS holds fond memories of going to corner bars that offered a Friday FF. Most times my parents would send me on my bike to pick them up. One of our fav was The Congress Cafe on the corner of Congress and W. Delavan Streets. Also remembering my Aunt Donna being a cook at the Past Time on Grant St. I found it almost eerie that you post the VFW in Angola when just last night while having dinner with an old friend from Angola that I haven’t seen in 20 years we had a lengthy talk about our visits to that VFW.
Now, I frequent the Lancaster pubs and the like for my Friday night FF’s.
Thanks Donnie. My family lived in Angola for a while and we all remember that VFW on Route 5 very well. I remember the Past Time on Grant Street as well, but not the Congress Cafe. Perhaps it is no longer with us? Lots of restaurants have come and gone but thankfully, the fish fry is here to stay.
After moving to New England, I’ve enjoyed many different kinds of fish many ways: baked, broiled, boiled, raw, grilled, and in a casserole, but there is nothing like the Buffalo fish fry. A must-eat each time I return home! Thanks for noting that the fish has to be hanging off both sides of the plate to be considered great 😋 Very important. Pass the tartar sauce.
Haha! I think it’s great that someone from seafood mecca New England enjoys a fish fry whenever they come home to Buffalo. Thanks so much for the comment, Corinne!
Great article. I don’t recall going out for fish frys as a child, but I sure enjoy them now.
Better late than never! Thanks for your comment, Liz.
Fish frys are a WNY culture thing. A tradition like the Turkey Trot on Thanksgiving morning , St Paddy’s day parade and chicken wings. More then food really more like it’s hot wired in our psyche. One interesting footnote during Covid quarantine restaurants were staying open with fish frys to go 1000’s of them .
In a world that was completely upside down fish frys were a piece of normalcy that let you believe hey we got this. It’s all right , fish frys made it all right.
Cy, you are so right. They are so much more than food. I love your comment about them being a piece of normalcy during a surreal time. Fish fries are the ultimate comfort food. Thank you for commenting. (PS: I hear Len Mattie serves up a good version at the Park Meadow. True?)
Thank you Moxie. There are many tasty fish frys to be found in WNY. As far as Park Meadow I wouldnt know. Hope your well.
Growing up in Buffalo and surrounding neighborhoods, the fish fry was always a staple for us. Several family members over the years have owned taverns and/or restaurants that served fabulous, traditional fish fries. Last year, my daughter purchased Poplar Pizza and Catering, on William Street in Cheektowaga. One of the big parts of her business is the fish fry! She serves them throughout the year and they are fantastic! This past lent, she has gone out on a limb and created baked fish dinners in some very eclectic flavors……her healthier variation of the fish fry! And, best of all, everything is made from scratch! It’s worth a try!
Baked fish does indeed sound like a healthier alternative Bernadette! I will put Poplar Pizza on my list of places to try. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks. I live near there. I’ll will try a fish fry tomorrow!
Oh yes, Catholic growing up in WV ALWAYS meant fish on Friday even after Vatican II. Love fish fry still and always!
Yes Mary! Always fish on Friday even though Vatican II relaxed the rules more than 50 years ago! Who wants to give up a good thing? Thanks for your comment. I always enjoy them.
Great article, except the mentioning of , I hate to even repeat it, a roll. Rye Bread please.
Oh yes, the battle between roll and rye bread is almost as intense at the battle between haddock and cod. Each have their staunch defenders. I am, however, happy with whatever, as long as there is good coleslaw on the side. Thanks for your comment Kevin!
Wonderful article, Moxie. Thanks for thinking of me. I have not had a good fish fry since my summer stay in Buffalo 3 years ago. I hit just about every Friday Fish fry I could during my long stay back then. Gene McCarthy’s Frist Ward (pictured below) and Wiechec’s Lounge are my two top spots for a fish fry. Not only is the fish fry itself fantastic, the local Buffalo atmosphere and ambiance adds to the experience. There is something so unique to that. Feels and felt just like home. You mentioned and show Hoaks restaurant. I remember hanging with Cathy Hoak for a while during my high school daze (spelled correctly). Cathy was a part of a group of St Joe’s Catholic girls my crew hung with for a while. I remember her as being a nice, albeit, quiet girl. I have been to her family’s restaurant more than a few times over my many visits. A few weeks ago I saw a story on a show called, What’s Eating America”. In that episode, the story of fish fry’s in Milwaukie and the Wisconsin area was brought up and being reported on. In short, it seems Lake Perch was the preferred fish for fish fry’s there that was served for many, many years. Unfortunately, due to climate change, there is a great shortage of Lake Perch. And even if you order it, at a premium price, that perch is imported at $17 a pound. Because of the shortage of perch, they have greatly substituted that battered fish with Cod and Haddock. Well you have succeeded, Moxie I now crave a gool ol’ fashioned Buffalo fish fry. Shot and a beer, bar and grill atmosphere and all.
You covered it John. Your writing skills are tremendous,and your spot on with all the wonderful places and joys of our home town.
Your articles are a pleasure to read.
PS Do you write for a living?
Hi John, I’m so glad the article resonated with you. Wiechec’s Lounge seems to be a real fan favorite, though I have to admit I’ve never gone there. I will next time I am in town. Funny you should mention Cathy Hoak–I went to school with Mary Ann Hoak, who I believe is her sister. Small world.
I am glad you cleared up the mystery of the lake perch, which is what I grew up eating on the West Side. My dad used to catch it and bring it home. No wonder nobody serves it anymore at $17 a pound!
Thanks for being a regular reader John! I always enjoy your comments.
Yes, a small world indeed, Moxie. Speaking of that small world, I see you mentioned Len Mattie’s place. I ate at Len’s place a few times. Once a few years ago with my whole extended Buffalo family for, of course, a Friday fish fry. It was good. Lens family house was a Jim Kelly stones throw away from my house. Known the family for years.
I went to school with Len. I’m very glad his place has survived the pandemic.
So if you were in the Old Lake Shore Rd back in the da, .didnt you go to Ma Lerzaks for Friday Fish Fry but even better Chicken in a basket also at the olde Block Hotel in Rt 5 ?
Always during Lent but my husband would eat it every day if he could
Me too!
This is a great article, not only because it is about one of the things we love most about our Buffalo home, but also b/c the pic of my local Angola VFW appeared.
As I grew up playing at & eventually working our family boat rental business, homemade fish frys were always on the menu throughout the year for us. However, it was a no Brainer for my mom & husband to get the beloved resteraunt fish fry on Monday while enjoying lunch @ the fore mentioned Hoaks. As my mom & I celebrated our birthday & what looks to be the final warm day on our beautiful Lake Erie shore, the hometown favorite was a huge hit, especially with my mom who couldn’t stop talking about it yesterday when I talked to her again.
So glad I came across this today, it really touched so many pieces of my life & made me smile about one of the many things I love about the place I get to call home!
P.S. I look forward to your book, I’ll be watching for it to hit the shelves.
Karen, thank you so much for your comment. I spent a lot of time in Angola, our family cottage was there. Probably saw you on the lake once or twice! I am glad you enjoyed the article, and that it spoke to you about a slice of Buffalo that is near and dear to all our hearts. And if you are interested, I will autograph a copy of my book for you when it comes out!
I thought that VFW looked familiar. My Uncle and Grandparent had their cottages on Old Lake Shore road. We went by that VFW for years while growing up. Another Uncle, Dr. Paul LaDuca and his wife, both WW2 veterans, were members there.
My friend and partner Buffalo Bills fan has a gluten intolerance so she has had to give up on beer battered fish fry’s.
I, having known how to cook since the age of 8(now 57), have come up with a 100% gluten free beer battered fish fry. That’s from fish to sides to desserts.
No one can tell the difference.😋
Very creative, Trisha. I’d love to know the secret to beer battered gluten free fish! You make it sound yummy. Thanks for your comment.
Libro’s restaurant in Getzville New York located on Campbell and dodge have fish fries every Friday they’re excellent should try it
Great tip Linda! I’ll check it out!
When I was a young lad in Buffalo, I recall the only two places that served fish fries were Sargent’s and Roy’s located at the foot of Ferry Street. They were across the street from each other on what was then the tow path. That was the place to go on Friday night. This was over 70 years ago. I do recall Hoak’s and another place next to it opening on the Lake Shore serving Fish Fries. Soon everyone served Fish Fries as it caught on like chicken wings did here in Buffalo. Not sure if Fish Fries originated in those two restaurants but I know they were there in the beginning. My dad loved his fresh fish so we went there often. Back then you were allowed to net fish and the Niagara River was a walk across the Ferry Bridge. I would not be surprised if they did catch the fish in the river as Yellow Pike was plentiful and that is what they served. I know as I used to catch lots of fresh fish dinners there.
Thank you, Anonymous for your comment and for sharing your memories. I loved the foot of Ferry Street, as my dad took us to fish there when we were young. I remember him catching yellow pike and perch in the river and my mom cooking it up for us at home. Not sure anyone serves yellow pike in the restaurants and John LaDuca says lake perch now costs $17 a pound! Anyway, thanks for the memories.
“What kind of a place is this anyway?” is hilarious. I remember being dragged to fish fry dinners on many Fridays when were growing up (I am not a huge fan of fish)–especially when relatives were here from out of town. Fish fry and Fridays were pretty much the peanut butter and jelly of a Buffalo childhood.
Thanks for your comment Jessica! As you might have guessed, the comment was made by my Aunt Jazzy. She is a hoot. Yes, fish fries are at the top of the Buffalo food pyramid.
My church has a fish fry every Friday on the eastside on Howard Street you won’t be disappointed
Sounds good, Denise! Which church?